Where we Stay (Wendy)

 Accommodations for pilgrims vary widely on the Camino. At one end are the municipal albergues. These are simple dorm rooms, usually charging around 15€ for a bunk. They don’t really take reservations, are often in amazing (or run-down) old buildings, and are run by some government agency (I think it’s the local village or regional government). They have a communal kitchen where you can prepare food and hang out, a wash sink and clothesline for laundry, and plastic-covered mattresses to reduce the chance of bug infestation. You usually get (or have to pay an extra euro for) a paper sheet and pillowcase. You may or may not be offered a blanket. 

Parochial albergues are similar, I think, though we haven’t stayed in any. Obviously, the organization running the operation is religious rather than governmental. They also often operate on a donation basis, though the suggested rate is similar to the municipal albergues. I’ve also heard from friends who have stayed at these that there is usually a communal meal which everyone pitches in to help prepare or perhaps even contribute food to.

Far at the other end, also run by the government (national Spanish government in this case) are the paradors—fancy luxury hotels in beautiful converted historic buildings. We have booked the parador in Santiago, right on the plaza by the cathedral, for our last two nights after we finish the Camino. Through some internet bait-and-switchery, I somehow managed to book one night through a 3rd-party booker that is charging us $200 more than the night I booked through the official government site, which gave us a special pilgrim rate. It will be lovely nonetheless. (This picture is from the parador in León where we did not stay. But doesn’t it look amazing?!)

In between are a wide variety of private-run albergues, hostels, and hotels. I have tried to determine what distinguishes an albergue from a hostel from a hotel, but so far, the only consistent distinction seems to be whether or not you have a private room with a private bathroom. In an albergue, we’ve never gotten this combination, though we have had a private room with a shared bath several times. 

We’ve also had a private room with a shared bath in a hostel, too. The distinction the owners seem to be making in their naming is whether or not they have both private rooms and dormitories. If they do, they consider themselves an albergue. If it’s all private rooms, some with private baths, some with shared baths, then it’s a hostel. If it’s all private rooms with private baths, then it’s a hostel or a hotel. The distinction here seems to be cost of the room (104€ for this room!).

Often, an establishment will have both an “albergue” section and a “hotel/hostel” section. In this case, they mean the place with bunk beds and shared bathrooms is the albergue. Private rooms with bath is the hotel/hostel.

These have turned out to be our favorite types of places to stay because you get the best of both worlds: space to spread out, deal with various injuries in private, get up and out in the morning without worrying about waking others up, and a radiator and other surfaces to hang still-damp clothes from the day’s laundry session.

However, you can still go hang out in the common area, have a drink, and share a communal meal with the other peregrinos. We all eat together in these places, whether we’re one of 20 in a bunk paying 15€ or in a private room for two that cost 45-60€. 

It is, I think, the perfect combination.